Zen and the art of coffee roasting

The craftsmanship behind Batdorf & Bronson
By Julie Douglas

In “The Devil in the Kitchen: Sex, Pain, Madness and the Making of a Great Chef,” Marco Pierre White, the first “rock-star chef” credited with plucking Britain out of culinary obscurity and elevating its restaurant scene to historic heights, details his quest to obtain the coveted three-Michelin star designation. The perfectionist chef catalogues his efforts, including distilling each dish to its “essence” and examining every jot and tittle of his restaurant.

Eventually White turns to a Michelin reviewer who advises, “If you start serving amuse-bouches and improve your coffee, you won’t be a million miles away.” The chef heeds his recommendation and shortly thereafter is awarded another star. So it follows that a detail like coffee quality can, in some cases, make or break the career of a chef—after all, it is the final impression to round out what should be a pleasing sensual experience.

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