Coffee & sympathy

By Erez Schweitzer

The espresso culture has penetrated Israel with its image of refined sophistication. With the number of cafes bubbling over in recent years, Israelis can now truly embrace the coffee experience.

Beckoning to drivers along the main road in Mitzpeh Ramon about a year ago was a new series of advertisements on circular poster boards, at eye level - the same sort of signs that announce important cultural events in the big cities. In this case, they were aimed at steering people to a new espresso bar in the town's old commercial district.

Any skepticism about the character of the place and the quality of the coffee served there was promptly dispelled on arrival. A real espresso bar, it had the same hammered brass tables, the same faux leather stools at the counter, the same glass-enclosed display of ciabatta sandwiches, biscotti and pastries. The coffee was excellent; only the bartender detracted somewhat from the atmosphere of smugness.

"I'm fed up already," she said, "with listening to all the snobs talking about how they feel like they've finally gotten back to civilization."

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